Saturday June 4th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Up up and away

A week ago we floated over Chianti. By hot air:

You start early, while the sun is still low, so you’ll see the shadow of the balloon on the hill:

Space:

Height:

Landing was – what’s the word – interesting. Gentle, though.

Ballooning is safe and comfortable. For us. For the pilot. Not for the guys who help take everything down.

Now just a cross-country haul to a prosecco breakfast:

Monday May 23rd, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Vegetables abound!

In February I provided a bit of an update on how the gardening was going, including a picture of the first peas going in. Sarah has been putting a huge amount of work into the orto, and here are a couple of views of the place taken just over a week ago.

View from the west:

View from the east:

 

Vigorous or what?

And another thing – the firefly season has got going. I suppose that if you have grown up with them they are just a mild curiosity, but for the rest of us they are quite magical.

And yet another thing – the pictures and music from Montereggio (previous post) have been sharpened up. I you looked before and found it tedious, you would find it better now.

Thursday May 5th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Mayday in Montereggio

You might want to get this playing before you read on, although if you saw the earlier version and gave up because it is too long, take heart – it is now much shorter and snappier. And the pictures look better, too:

Something like 40 years ago I saw the Britannia Coconut Dancers in cold and rainy Bacup – well it was cold and rainy that day. It’s Lancashire, after all. If you don’t know them, there are a number of videos on Youtube. The gist of it is that on Easter Saturday they go around the town stopping at various points for a dance, accompanied by a silver band, and a pint or two here and there. I do believe that there are a number of tunes played, but if you have a look at the videos you will hear one that is essentially the one.

Here in the Lunigiana we have something that demands to be compared. The appointed day is May Day, which this year of course was a Saturday. (At least, I’m assuming it’s always May 1.) Montereggio is a very small town well up in the hills behind Mulazzo, a “booktown” in fact, and for this day it is decorated with broom. The colours of the day are green and yellow, rather than the black, white, red and blue of the Britannia dancers, and they don’t dance, but they sing. Many of the households put out food and wine on tables for all who wish to partake, and each one is treated to the song. I expect it brings good luck. It certainly ought to. Again, I suspect there is more than one song, but there is one alone that dominates.

As you will see in picture number three, there was rain, but not a lot. You will also see dogs, musicians and photographers. What did you expect? Silvio Berlusconi?

Sunday April 17th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Undiligent blogger outmanoeuvred

I confess – I had to look up how to spell “outmanoeuvre”.

Having announced our plan to go to lunch with Dante, I sat around not doing anything with the pictures I took, and in the meantime the event has been covered at Ciao Lunigiana. So here are just a few late snaps.

Medieval people waiting for lunch:

Local medieval-style produce:

Medieval child:

The path to medieval lunch:

As in medieval times, not vegetarian:

Grandma’s medieval soup:

Medieval people heading for lunch (Dante is holding the flowers):

Medieval hangers-on, but presumably hangers of high status to judge from the clothes:

Medieval eggs. I think the water is probably safer these days:

A bit of a Tardis moment here, I think, as Dante Alighieri himself sits in front of the medieval people and his own statue:

Sunday April 3rd, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Alighieri for lunch, anyone?

Mulazzo is the village, large by the standards of these parts, that sits up the next valley with a commanding view east down towards the Magra river. It features a bar which in turn features both a remarkable selection of beer and a landlord whose main love in life is entertaining his customers with ballads and karaoke. At least that’s how it was when we visited last year. Now we are drawn back!

Mulazzo, you see, has another and greater claim to fame. 705 years ago Dante (yes, that one) came for lunch! Next week this will be re-enacted, and it is hoped that it will be every year.

The festivities will include an opening ceremony, a re-enactment of Dante’s climb up through the town to the Malaspinas’ front door, a mass, the consumption of local food and wine (two hours are given over to this), the ceremonial affixation of a bas-relief, and lectures, including one on the Purgatorio Canto VIII. Was it Mulazzo that gave Dante the idea for purgatory? We shall have to go to find out.

You can learn more about it (and, of course, there is more) from Mulazzo’s website. And if you don’t speak Italian, don’t forget that Google Translate is ready to show you what a long way machine translation still has to go!

Wednesday March 16th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Paddy’s day in Lunigiana

Well, almost. Two days later. I take it that all those who can will bring an instrument? There’s no saying that they will be played, but one should always be prepared.

Wednesday March 16th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Germination

It’s like magic, innit? On 15 March the first seeds poked baby heads above ground!

Monday March 7th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Let’s not be too hard on Prince Andrew

It could be worse. After all, although there is no reason to believe he is actually stupid, he is clearly not particularly bright. He was trained from birth to believe that he was a thick cut above almost anyone else. This putative superiority is inherent. It does not depend on the things the rest of us try to trade on: wit, intelligence, looks, charm, physical prowess, hard work, artistic accomplishment… That’s pretty much what “hereditary monarchy” means, isn’t it? He gets his £249,000 a year from the queen just for being, well, a cut above. After all, it is unlikely but not inconceivable that he could become King of England. So he really is a cut above, isn’t he?

If I may borrow a term from computer marketing, these “features” of his personality are probably just what’s needed for somebody who is going to swan around fixing arms deals with the oil-rich leaders of oppressive regimes. Correct me if that’s not what his job was. So, well done Andy for that. And if you think it’s immoral, as you may well, take it up with the British Government and the arms manufacturers, not the poor old Duke of York.

If the royal family actually had significant power, somebody with those features could be a tad more worrying. It could be worse.

Friday February 25th, 2011. Posted by Alex:

Gardening in Tuscany – the story so far

   

If you search for “Tuscan Garden” on the net you will find more about how to make mock Tuscan gardens in Melbourne or in Oregon than about gardens in Tuscany. And if you add “how to” into your search criteria, you are more likely to find out about the bits you need to make your mock Tuscan garden in Surrey than about how to look after a garden that happens to be in Tuscany. What is more, there are plenty of blogs about renovating houses in Tuscany, but not much about trying to get a garden going. Perhaps we have found a niche? I doubt it, but this seems as good a place as any to record attempts, successes and failures. Look for the “gardening” tag!   

There is more than half an acre of land attached to the house, and it is very varied. At the top, next to the village pond, there is what with laughing optimism we call the “lawn”, which is on one level with a tiled “patio”. The tiles were an extremely bad choice on the part of the lads who renovated the house. You’ve heard the saying “slippery when wet”? I’ll say no more. This patio was graced with an instant “gazebo”. Not being fond of it, somehow we forgot to take the fabric down in the autumn, as a result of which the snow brought it down, rather more permanently, in the winter.   

Moving down a level there is a stone-paved area for which we have great hopes, although it can be extremely hot in the summer, and at the moment it’s necessary to walk all the way round the house to get to it, so we didn’t use it a lot last year. We have plans, but that’s for another day.   

Moving away from the house, but staying on this level, we have what with laughing optimism we called the “meadow”. On arrival last May it was overgrown with a spiky, not very pleasant weed that is common in this area and whose name I haven’t yet found out. Did you notice the past tense in the first sentence of this paragraph? That’s because it is now part meadow and part “orto”, as vegetable plots are known around here.   

Meadow 2009 - picture from estate agent

 

March 2010 - some clearing started

 

Beyond the meadow the ground drops away towards the local creek. Part of the drop is extremely steep – a small cliff, to put it bluntly, and part of the drop is more gentle. On our arrival it was overgrown with brambles, creepers and other fast-growers; it could be seen to undulate, and there was a suspicion of old terraces under the vegetation. At the bottom of the slope we reach the boundary of our land, and the ground continues for another 30 flat metres before reaching the creek.  The next picture really only shows how overgrown it was – the configuration of the land makes it hard to take a photograph that shows what’s what. At the right, which is the bottom of the slope, you can see the tomatoes in the neighbour’s orto, on the flat ground next to the river.   

July 2010 - undulating and overgrown

 

The greenery also makes the next picture hard to interpret: we are looking from near the river straight at the green bank which we now know to have terraces underneath. 

July 2010 - the undulating slope

 

Last summer I did a bit of work and started to bring order to some areas. It was soon obvious, though, that if there was to be any worthwhile success we would have to change over to my favourite kind of gardening. In a nutshell, this is the “get-a-bloke-to-come-and-tell-him-what-to-do” method. The first thing was to find a “bloke”, but we did, and what it good find he has been. 

The next picture is very much the same view as the one above, taken from just a little bit closer. The cast iron bath had been dumped over the edge off by previous owners. Some weeks after this photograph was taken it succumbed to the mightiest of blows that I could manage with a heavy hammer, and has been taken away piece by piece.  

November 2010 - the terraces appear

 

The brown patch in the middle of the picture below is where the bath was. You may see steps being created leading from the meadow down to the terraces.  

December 2010 - two terraces

 

With the help we needed, the clearing the meadow has gone on apace; a section of the meadow has been very thoroughly dug over to prepare it for vegetables; the undulating slope has been cleared to reveal terraces (though, hey, I got started on that myself!); rustic steps have been put in to help get from the meadow to the three terraces below; the “lawn”, “patio”, and “meadow” have been fenced, so that we can share them with the dogs without having to watch them all the time or have them tied up; the orto has been fenced, so that the dogs won’t dig holes in it. And more. It must be admitted that at this stage things are not exactly looking pretty. But they are looking hopeful!  

January 2011 - frost and more clearing

 

And then the big day: the first vegetable seeds were planted: early peas. Two rows of them. The 23rd of February 2011 was, admittedly, a little bit on the late side, but you can’t do everything all at once. They were also planted in what is held to be the wrong phase of the moon – according to local lore, peas should be planted when the moon is waxing. You can get leaflets from the seed and plant suppliers to help you coordinate your sowing with the moon’s phases. Saints’ days play a part too, so it’s a jolly good job there are experts to work out the calendar for us. There is obviously scope for somebody to publish a timetable that also takes into account the movements of planets through the astrological houses, but I haven’t seen this done yet. Anyway, by the middle of March little green curly things should start to come out of the soil, and by the end of April we might even be eating them.   

Feb 25 2011 - orto prepared

 

Feb 25 2011 - the work is under guard

 

Early peas

 

The very first seed goes in

 

 Frankly, it looks a bit of a mess at the moment – but wait until spring really gets going!  

Meadow and orto

 

Feb 25 2011 - the terraces now

Monday February 21st, 2011. Posted by Alex:

I thought the Bourne Trilogy was unrealistic.

I love the Bourne trilogy. But I do know that it is a trilogy of, yes, films. Fiction. For entertainment. The real CIA, however, seems to want to live that lifestyle out.

Raymond Davis, initially said to have been an “administrative and technical official” attached to the American consulate in Lahore, is now supposed to have diplomatic immunity. It has become clear that he was a CIA agent – his wife referred reporters to an enquiry number in Washington, which turned out to be the CIA. The television company who made this discovery has, apparently removed the CIA reference from its website at the request of the US government. (The Guardian)

What does he want diplomatic immunity for? Well, stopping at traffic lights and shooting two men in the back several times, at least one of them as he ran away. I really didn’t know that “diplomatic immunity” gave “diplomats” licence to charge around foreign cities with a semi-automatic Glock and shoot people dead. I don’t doubt that “diplomatic immunity” is abused, but surely it doesn’t permit murder on the open streets?

Just to make matters worse, two armed Americans rushed out in a Land Cruiser with false number plates to try to retrieve this “diplomat”. They crushed a motorcyclist, killing him, in the course of this dismal, failed enterprise. I’m sure they felt like film stars at the time! Davis, at least, is for the moment in prison in Pakistan awaiting legal process. America would not allow the Pakistani authorities to question the two occupants of the land cruiser, who have now been spirited out of the country.

Okay, there are two unrealistic things about Jason Bourne: mostly he succeeds, and he is not devoid of morals. As far as we can tell, the real CIA agents here only have the running around and killing people to their credit.